Three Perfect Days in Valencia

In the summer, take advantage of the golden sand and build in time to catch some rays next to the sea. Alternatively, explore the history of Valencia at a cathedral, stroll through the atmospheric market hall, or come for the fiery fiesta of Las Fallas.

Even with only three days to spend in Valencia, there’s a wealth of things to see and do, from the must-see, big-ticket items to a slew of little surprises along the way. And remember, don’t leave the city without trying its truly world-class paella along the way.

Day One – Explore the Old Town

Your Valencia agenda must include the old town, Ciutat Vella. Made up of several barrios, the old town can be easily explored with a map. However, the best way to see this part of the city is to follow your inner adventure-seeking senses. Wander from pristine plaza to plaza, from alluring alley to alley, and discover something new at every turn. Wander past buildings decorated with ornate balconies dating back hundreds of years, and marvel at how seamlessly they sit side by side with those from the modernist era.

In Plaza de la Virgen, you’ll find the cathedral, which has been a place of worship since Roman and Moorish times. The current building is a stunning 13th-century Christian construction dusted with the magic of Goya’s art, as well as perhaps one of the most important religious symbols in the world. Many say that the Holy Grail, used by Christ at the Last Supper, resides within the structure. Whatever the truth, let this building take you on a journey through the compelling tale that is the city’s long history. Afterward, you’ll be close to the Plaza de la Reina. It’s packed with cafes where you can sit, grab some lunch, and watch the world go by in typical laid-back Mediterranean style.

The Mercato Centrale, or Central Market, is the envy of many. It’s a handsome modernist building that gives the likes of Barcelona’s famed Boqueria a run for its money. The interior is as gorgeous as the exterior, while the stalls groan with wonderful fresh produce. There’s a good tapas bar or two inside – so even if you’re not shopping, you can sample some of the best food in the town.

Suitably rested, you can climb the towers that separate the old town from the new - Torres de Quart and Torres de Serrano both give you a superb view of the layout of Ciutat Vella. The last great site of the old town is La Lonja, which was built in the late 15^th century as the city’s silk exchange. This Gothic masterpiece is incredibly well-preserved, as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main hall is very much the center of attention, but you can also climb the central tower or enjoy the serenity of the orange garden.

Day Two – Valencia’s Modern Heart

For a bit of variety, allow your second day in Valencia to take on more of a modern feel. The diverting of the River Turia in the 1960s was the event that brought Valencia kicking and screaming into being a destination fit for visitors, transforming much of the city’s center. The greatest manifestation of this is the City of Arts and Sciences complex, which is a giant piece of modern design penned by the somewhat controversial architect Santiago Calatrava.

It may have cost the city a lot of money, but the CAC seems more than worth it to the visitor. It offers a planetarium, science museum, and opera house all on site. The Oceanografic Aquarium is as awesome as it is huge with a state-of-the-art center and breath-taking shark tunnels that allow you to get into the world of the perfect predator. Keep your eyes open for passing dolphins and a cacophony of other colorful species.

On a mild day, there are few better things to do in the city than wander from one of the CAC’s glass-and-steel buildings out into the Jardines del Turia. There are lawns and gardens aplenty, scores of places to sit, and if you’re feeling more active, there are a handful of places to hike. All in all, it’s a superbly landscaped urban park.

When it comes to dining in Valencia, your choices are endless. Do you go for a traditional taverna, eat your way around a clutch of tapas bars, trying the house specialty in each one, or go for a gastronomic experience? If you choose the latter, they don’t come much better than Riff Restaurante on Calle Conde Altea. Bernd Knoller is the German chef who has embraced Valencian life and brought a Michelin star to his restaurant as a result. Choose from the carefully curated set menus or be more ambitious and order from an a la carte menu that includes sea trout with tigernut, razor clams with mustard and parsley, and sublime monkfish with onion and truffle. It costs more than a plate of tapas, but the cooking of this standard will transport you to gastronomic bliss.

Day Three – Paella Perfection

There’s never been a better time to visit El Cabanyal, the former fisherman’s quarter. Previously known as the scruffier part of town, it has been transformed into the chic and livable place it is today. Wander the streets to find a friendly area full of locals near Las Arenas beach.

Once at the beach, you can hire a lounger, throw down your towel, or stroll along the boulevard that backs on to the beach. On the seafront, you’ll find dozens of cafes and restaurants, or you can head into the warren of El Cabanyal for tapas. While some seafront places are unapologetic in their catering for visitors, others are genuinely excellent. Casa Carmela has been serving authentic paella – complete with rabbit – since 1922, and the eatery is packed with both locals and tourists night after night.

Tick off some legendary Spanish art at the Museo de Bellas Artes. It’s the second biggest art collection in Spain and occupies a converted 17th-century convent. El Greco and Goya are prominent, but best of all, there are pieces from the true Spanish master, Velazquez, including a self-portrait that’s worth the visit alone. After that, all that’s left is for you to fill up on tapas such as glistening Iberico ham, salted Padron peppers, and piquant local cheese. You can count on ending your trip with the taste of authentic Valencia on your pallet.

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