Where to eat and stay in Pisa

No matter what time of year you visit, Pisa is one of Italy’s most charming locations for a vacation – and the good news is that it has the cuisine to match. Among the plethora of Pisan attractions, you’ll find a city heaving with dining opportunities. The best restaurants in Pisa offer everything from simple and traditional fare, to lavish tasting menus.

Pisa is a city also crawling with fantastic, quirky places to stay. Lay your head down in a converted medieval house, bask in the added perks of a five-star hotel, or escape to the serenity of a secluded riverside guesthouse. Hotels in Pisa offer fantastic views, a chance to indulge in art, and easy access to the history and architecture that make it one of the best cities in the world to visit.

Pisan Classics

You might expect that a hotel named the Royal Victoria would be opulent and excessive. In fact, this is an understated place to stay, despite its glowing historic guest book. In the hotel's 170 years of existence, it has welcomed a raft of esteemed guests, including Charles Dickens, Emile Zola, Alexander Dumas, and numerous royals from around the world. Sections of the building predate the hotel itself, with some rooms found in a 10th-century tower. Here, you can bag yourself a resplendent river view and put yourself in close proximity to Pisa’s most famous attraction, the leaning tower.

Following the theme of timeless style, head to La Pergoletta for your first meal. With an emphasis on simple Tuscan cuisine, this restaurant is understandably popular with Pisans, who crowd in for homemade pasta in deeply flavored sauces. It’s great for families with kids, but the mother-and-daughter duo who run the place have also crafted a hugely romantic space. Couples can sit in the courtyard late on a summer night, gaze at the lights gently glowing in the tree that sits at the center, and soak in that signature laid-back, Tuscan atmosphere. Try the rabbit tagliatelle and – if you’re not driving – a glass of Brunello di Montalcino for a meal you won’t forget in a hurry.

Rocks and Rooms

In a town as old as this, it comes as no surprise that some hotels are in buildings dating back through the centuries, giving you a chance to traverse time and experience Pisa as it once was.

In the case of La Grotta, the place is literally hewn out of the rock, the interior having a grotto-like feel that gives the restaurant its name. It all adds up to a cozy atmosphere, while the simple menu is Tuscan in nature and utterly reliable. They have seating outside, which makes for a fantastic setting when the sun is shining. Indoors, its rough finish provides a charming and unique edge. Opt for the paccheri pasta with ragu, or pici, which is a thicker spaghetti. Desserts entice, and the local cheeses are a real highlight.

You’re close to the old town, so a room nearby makes sense. There are few better in the city than Relais dell’Orologio, a 14th-century palace turned into a five-star hotel. It’s a place that puts you steps away from the Piazza dei Miracoli, where the leaning tower, cathedral, baptistery, and more loom large over one of the most decorated squares in the world. The feel of the hotel is more Belle Époque than medieval, with small but elegant rooms, a courtyard to dine in, and some quirky features that hint to the building’s long history.

Gluten-Free Restaurants in Pisa

Many Italian cities have made great leaps forward when it comes to catering for those with food allergies or intolerances. Those classic staples of pasta and pizza are available across the city in gluten-free recipes designed for celiac diners. Osterias, pizza-houses, and gelato spots will all have plenty of choices, and with the number of tourists in the city, locals will be happy to help guide you through the menu when it’s not in English.

La Scaletta is a particular highlight. Open for more than 150 years, the chefs are happy to prepare any of their dishes without gluten. With its location close to Piazza dei Miracoli, it should appeal to most diners, with superb seafood, langoustine tartare, fagottelli pasta stuffed with octopus, and turbot with white balsamic vinegar.

If you’re self-catering, supermarkets in the city stock a good supply of gluten-free products. In a place with such a high intake of wheat through pasta and pizza, it’s admirable to see how it has adapted to the dietary needs of visitors.

Spaghetti and Simplicity

Most hotels in Pisa advertise themselves in terms of how close they are to the city’s iconic tower, but some have even more to tempt you. The Palazzo Cini, for example, is close enough to said tower (although not too close), yet its real pull is the simple and understated design that puts comfort first, as well as its private garden providing a peaceful oasis for when you want to escape the crowds. Rooms in this renovated 19th-century palace aren’t all the same, so check the website to decide if you want the whirlpool tub, a city view, or free-standing bathtub.

For pasta you’ll still be talking about when you’re back home, Ristorante alle Bandierine prides itself on its spaghetti. It’s just far enough off the beaten track to keep away from the touristy spots, so you’ll be accompanied by locals who come here for the friendly vibe – it’s very much a family-run place. Set menus are great value, and may include spaghetti with gorgonzola and cognac, or paired with clams and lemon. There’s good seafood, classic Italian desserts, and an unhurried, familial feeling that is oh-so-Italian.

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