Spending a Day in Saint-Émilion, France

The fortified village was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 for its historic buildings, dating back to the 11th century, and the area's devotion to its vineyards and French winemaking. Walking through Saint-Émilion feels like stepping back in time. Its narrow stone streets and limestone buildings are mostly unchanged. Cars are prohibited within the town, but parking is plentiful around the perimeter.

Great Grapes

Wine is Saint-Émilion’s primary industry, and most of it comes from small, family-owned producers rather than the grand châteaux found in Bordeaux, says Rebecca Banks, the beverage director for the Keith McNally Restaurant Group in New York City. Rather than the cabernet sauvignon and other fuller-bodied reds that are the trademark of Bordeaux's Left Bank, Saint-Émilion produces more merlots and cabernet francs. "The wines are a little bit softer and a little bit easier to drink," Banks says.

To really experience Saint-Émilion's wine, Banks recommends trying newer and older vintages of the same wine. "My best advice is go to a winery to taste the newest vintage they have, and then go to a local restaurant and taste that wine again with a good five or 10 years of age on it," she says. "These wines are really meant to age."

Not every winery has an open-door policy, and many do not have tasting rooms, she adds, so it's best to book winery tours in advance. Two to three tours in one day are feasible, Banks says, and it should even allow enough time to sightsee, shop, and enjoy a leisurely French meal or two. Visitors can reserve tours and tastings online at the Tourist Office of Saint-Emilion and Bordeaux Wine Trip among other agencies.

The best times to visit Saint- Émilion are during the spring or fall, when temperatures are mild, agrees both Banks and Philippe Newlin, director of Duclot La Vinicole USA, an importer and distributor of Bordeaux wine. In the spring, the vines turn bright green and begin to flower, and in the fall, the grapes are harvested — busy months for the wineries and an exciting time to visit. August is not a great time to go, says Banks, as it tends to be very hot in southern France and many locals take a month-long holiday.

Stunning Structures

Along with its wine, Saint-Émilion’s medieval architecture makes the town a must-see for anyone visiting the Bordeaux area. The village's most famous building is the Monolithic Church, built in the 11th century. Visitors can admire the church's monuments, catacombs, and frescoes, and learn the story of the monk Émilion, the town's namesake.

Go underground with a visit to Les Cordeliers, a preserved cloister featuring elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and Modern architecture. After a tour, guests can relax in the garden with a glass of Cordeliers' own sparkling wine.

If children are in tow, engage them with a scavenger hunt around Saint-Émilion. Stop by the tourism office in town to pick up a free booklet (or download the PDF). Little hunters can choose a theme: heritage, gastronomy, or nature, and each hunt is tailored for different ages, ranging from about 5 to 15.

Eating and Drinking in Saint-Émilion

Travelers to Saint-Émilion can expect to find French favorites at the town's cafes and brasseries, as well as local wines by the glass or bottle. L'Envers du Décor is "the place where all of the local winery people go to eat," Newlin says. Dine inside the cozy eatery or outside on its shaded stone terrace. The cafe offers a large variety of Saint-Émilion wines by the glass and pairs them well with the homemade food on its menu, which changes daily, says Banks.

Both Banks and Newlin also recommend a visit to Château La Dominique, located just outside the town limits. Guests can tour the winery, sample the wine in the tasting room, and have lunch on its elevated terrace, which offers panoramic views of the Saint-Émilion vineyards. During the tour, visitors learn about the winemaking process, as well as the château's history, which dates back to the 17th century.

No trip would be complete without sampling Saint-Émilion’s famous sweets: canelés and macarons. Small, round cakes soaked in rum, canelés can be found in patisseries and cafes throughout the town. Legend has it that they originated in Bordeaux as a way to use the leftover egg yolks accumulating from winemakers clarifying their wine with egg whites. The almond-flavored macarons made by baker Nadia Fermigier in Saint-Émilion are said to come from a recipe that dates back to the 1600s. The Saint-Émilion macaron is a simpler version of the candy-colored, filled confections commonly available in the U.S., and it's a can't-miss treat.

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