Vitoria’s strategic position, on a hill surrounding the plain of Alava, led to it becoming a defensive stronghold during the 11th and 12th centuries and today the almond-shaped old town (casco viejo) remains at the heart of the city.
A tale of two squares
The Plaza de la Virgen Blanca is the city’s main focal point. It’s surrounded by myriad bars, cafés and restaurant terraces and overlooked by the city’s patron saint, the Virgen Blanca, from her perch on top of the Church of San Miguel.
The square is also the starting point for the city’s annual festival, held on August 4. Close by is the 18th-century Plaza de España (also called Plaza Nueva), once used for bullfights and markets but today a more sedate place where you can enjoy a drink and pintxo (the Basque version of tapas) on one of the surrounding bar terraces.
Take you pick of the pintxos
The pintxo in Vitoria is as good as any you'll find in Spain. These tasty mini-meals tend to consist of slices of ham, cheese, potato, pepper and onion skewered on to a slice of bread but you can also find much fancier versions, such as foie gras in a mini ice-cream cone topped with raspberry.
The best and the busiest bars are located on and around the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. Sagartoki, on Calle del Prado, is renowned for its delicious creations. There are also plenty of popular bars on the tree-lined Calle Eduardo Dato. One of these is Bar Saburdi, with mouth-watering pintxos piled high on the bar.
Old and new cathedrals
Vitoria's pièce de resistance is the 13th-century cathedral of Santa María, a magnificent example of Gothic architecture in the northern part of the old town. It was closed in 1994 as it was literally falling down but can still be visited on an absolutely fascinating guided tour of the restoration process. You’ll just need to reserve your place online first.
Vitoria’s imposing Cathedral of María Inmaculada de Vitoria is quite a sight to behold. Standing next to Florida Park, the city’s ‘new cathedral’ was first built in 1907 but work stopped soon after, then restarted in 1946, before finally being consecrated in 1969. Still not fully completed, it’s well worth a visit to appreciate its massive scale and beautiful stained glass windows.
From modern art to playing cards
In the heart of the Old Town is the Bibat Museum Complex, which is, in fact, two museums in one. Housed in the splendid 16th-century Bendaña Palace is the wonderfully quirky Museo Fournier de Naipes, a museum displaying playing cards from around the world dating as far back as the 15th century.
Next door, in a modern copper building, is the Archeological Museum (Museo de Arqueología), which contains around 1,500 original pieces from the province of Álava dating from the Paleolithic era through to the Middle Ages.
Close by sits Vitoria’s modern and contemporary art museum, the Artium, reckoned by many to rival the amazing Guggenheim in Bilbao. The museum features works by the likes of Miró, Picasso and Tàpies, as well as hosting temporary exhibitions.
Car rental in Vitoria-Gasteiz allows you to see the best of this wonderful city, as well as head out to explore the wider Basque region.
