Fringed by the sea and surrounded on all sides by serene coastal resorts, Naples itself is a hive of urban energy befitting of Italy’s third largest city.
With a long and deep history, some of its areas seem untouched by time. It’s also rough and ready, with run-down areas nestled alongside middle-class neighborhoods. A stroll through the center illuminates a wealth of contrasts, which gives Naples’ sprawl much of its charm.
The old city
Naples was founded as Neapolis by the Greeks in 470 B.C., and bears the imprint of classical culture. The historic center of the city – or ‘centro storico’ – is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and packed full of medieval sights that will have you gasping in awe.
Visit the 13th century Duomo where you’ll find mosaics that are even older – dating back to the 4th century. Inside is the Chapel of the Treasury (Cappella di San Gennaro – named after the protector of Naples) that was built in the 17th century and contains the most magnificent baroque artwork.
There’s also a 4th century basilica that was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1688. Take a tour of the sensitively restored catacombs to see the saint’s tomb and portrait, as well as 2nd century frescoes.
Back on the street you’ll spy ornate spires such as the Obelisco di San Gennaro on Piazza Riario Sforza, with ancient churches and cloisters nearby. Finish your mini-tour with a visit to the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore. Beneath it lies a warren of Greco-Roman streets to wander past, including the remnants of a bakery.
Pizza pride
Many parts of Italy stake a claim to having invented certain world-famous dishes, but Naples is most certainly the home of pizza. It’s no surprise that it’s also the best place in the world to eat it.
Neapolitans turn their noses up at deep-pan pizza, and once you’ve tasted one of their fresh pizzas – thin, hand-rolled dough coated with fresh tomatoes and cheese and blistered in a wood-fired oven – you’ll see why.
True Neapolitan pizza makes a virtue of simplicity. At the famous L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – renowned for the lines that form outside – there are only a couple of options, the Margherita and the Marinara. They’re no frills, but they’re fantastic. An insider tip: there’s a third pizza that’s not on the menu – the ‘Doppio Mozzarrella’ with double cheese, but you’ll need to ask.
At lunch and dinner times you’ll see huge crowds forming outside of some hole-in-the-wall pizza spots – a sure sign they’re worth a visit. Make your way to the front of the line at Pizzeria di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali for pizza fritta – fried pizza with the fillings sealed inside. A taste of heaven. Yes, Naples is good at other food too, but it’s hard to get past the pizza.
Castle on the sea
Head for the upscale district of Chiaia for shopping and people watching, before making for the sea where, on a small peninsula, sits the Castel dell’Ovo – or Egg Castle. While its modern construction dates back to the 15th century, there have been fortifications on the site since the 1st century BC.
We’ve barely scratched the surface of a city that’s wild and wonderful. Naples will live long in the memory of visitors. Experience the very best of it, along with the rest of Campania, with car rental in Naples.