A city split isn’t necessarily a city divided, and while the River Liffey runs through the heart of Dublin, carving out its distinctive north and south, this is still a unified city with a sense of history, purpose and direction. You’ll find brilliant cafes from where you can look out at the world, water-side retreats, stunning libraries and marvelous museums, all within one of the world’s friendliest cities.
A glimpse of history
To see into Dublin’s past, the choices are seemingly limitless. The incredible Old Library with its treasure, The Book of Kells, within the 16th century Trinity College, is always popular – book a walking tour to see the very best of it. The Chester Beatty library at Dublin Castle also contains illuminated texts, Chinese jade books, ancient Qu’rans and biblical papyri in a collection that spans almost 5,000 years.
At the National Gallery you’ll see a fine array of Irish art, but also Caravaggio’s wondrous The Taking of Christ and pieces by Picasso, Rembrandt and El Greco. The Jack B Yeats collection here is also well worth a detour.
Haunted hostelries
The Irish love to tell tales to their visitors – and there’s no finer place than this city of myth to hear a ghost story. Many landlords will claim their pub is haunted, and there are also legends of the souls of former prisoners haunting Kilmainham Gaol – go see for yourself. Sheridan le Fanu wrote ghost stories in the city in the 19th century, and that heritage is celebrated at the Dublin Ghost Story Festival. If you’re feeling brave, head to Montpelier Hill, which is home to an 18th century building that once hosted The Hellfire Club. Rumors surround this occult club – ones of devil worship, sacrifices and visitors with cloven hooves.
Dine your way around Dublin
You’ll need plenty of energy to explore all of Dublin, so stay for dinner at one of the many fantastic eateries here. For consistently excellent dining, Chapter One, based below the Dublin Writers Museum, is a reliable choice. There’s a sophistication about the highly-rated Dax, where chef Graham Neville conjures magic from local ingredients. Try the Annagassan lobster, Clooconra cheese, Kildare beef or Ballycullane lamb for a true taste of the Irish larder.
For food on the go – combined with some sightseeing – there are a number of food markets, including one every week at Temple Bar. Street food is increasingly popular in the city – head for Eatyard in South Richmond Street from Thursday to Sunday for a rotating choice of vendors. Expect excellent Indian food from Kerala Kitchen, dirty burgers from Box Burger and pillowy Asian buns from Pow Bao. It might not be traditional Irish food, but this is an international city known for being open-minded and experimental when it comes to cuisine.
See the riches of this charismatic town with car rental in Dublin, and then leave the city behind to see the rest of the Emerald Isle – you won’t be able to wait to come here again.