With a population of just over 1 million people, Sofia can sometimes feel more like a very large town than a major capital – and that’s a big part of its appeal. Having been invaded over the course of several millennia by the Romans, Ottomans, Greeks and Soviets, it’s a place packed with history, ruins, monuments and fragments of former civilizations. However, it’s also a place of rebirth, having shrugged off the yoke of the Communist years.
The vitality of Vitosha
The giant backdrop of the volcanic Vitosha mountain lures many visitors to Sofia, whether it’s for skiing and winter sports or, during summer months, for hiking and trekking. While it’s 10km away, it feels at one with the city itself. Covered with spruce forest, holed with caves and home to endemic flowers and 30 types of orchid, it’s a sublime, fragranced place to walk during summer, affording a spectacular panorama of the city.
A Roman resurrection
During works to expand the metro service in Sofia, a great amount of Roman ruins was found above Serdika metro station. Eight streets, houses, baths and a Christian basilica were discovered and have been preserved for visitors. At Restaurant Serdika, a large window looks onto the western gate of the Roman city, a perfect place to eat traditional dishes and bask in a front-row seat.
Delve further into the past at the Archaeological Museum. Exhibitions here range from the Paleolithic, to the Bronze Age and beyond, all in a building built in 1496. It’s packed with stunning artefacts, including a gold burial mask from when the Thracians ruled.
A stomp around Sofia
Park up your rental car and join a free walking tour to pack in the highlights of the capital. Free Sofia Tour is an English language introduction to the city that starts at the Palace of Justice and finishes at the National Assembly, taking in cathedrals, theaters, gardens, basilicas, synagogues and market halls. It’s an invaluable glimpse into the rich make-up of Bulgarian life.
For a different experience, take a walking tour of Communist Sofia, shedding light on Bulgaria when it was part of the USSR. This three-hour walk includes the Soviet Army Monument, National Palace of Culture, the Communist Party HQ and the Secret Police building. The guide will give you a potted introduction to how life was in the 45 years of Communist rule.
Bulgarian bites
The many nations that have staked a claim to Bulgaria and Sofia have left their influences behind on the food as well as the architecture. Grilled meats are popular and widely available, while Meshana Skara is a mixed grill. Cool down in the sweltering summer with Tarator, a cold soup of yoghurt, cucumber, dill and walnuts. The most popular cheese is a brined variety called Sirene, similar to feta. It’s a key part of the Shopska Salata – a vegetable salad.
If the self-conscious traditionalism of a restaurant such as Vodenitzata – complete with waiting staff in national dress – is a bit too much for you, head to Moma for a modern, relaxed take on it. They do a great version of the Shopska, as well as chicken and pork fillet served in a bowl of bread.
With the modern city peeking out from the past, Sofia is a delightful city that rewards the inquisitive. Car rental in Sofia will let you unearth the real Sofia, and the beautiful Bulgaria that beckons you.