Old palazzos full of history, spectacular views, and Sicilian street-food await in our insider’s guide to where to stay and eat in Palermo, Italy.
The renaissance of Palermo as a tourist destination has led to a rebirth for its hotels and restaurants. Already a fantastic place to eat with countless traditional places to sample classic Italian cooking and Sicilian specialties, the increase in visitors has led many places to up their game and cater to international guests.
The same is true when it comes to where to stay in Palermo. Grand hotels are interspersed with boutiques and guesthouses, meaning there has never been a better time to travel to Sicily’s largest city. Get ready to sleep in comfort and eat like royalty with our guide.
Splendor and Street Food
Delve straight into Palermo life and choose a unique eatery in the heart of the action. BB22 was one of the first boutique bed and breakfasts in Palermo and maintains its comfortable and welcoming charm. It hasn’t eased off on quality control and is still one of the best places to stay in Palermo. Despite its central location, it’s quiet and tranquil, a respite from the busy city. Plus, it’s only a stroll to excellent restaurants, the sea, and the nearby La Vucciria market. On a sunny day, lounge on the roof terrace, or relax in a tastefully decorated room in the heat of the day.
The area is full of trattoria and osteria – Italian restaurants – and with the market so close by, authentic street food is not to be missed. There are a number of traditional dishes to be had throughout Palermo, from the risotto rice balls, known as arancini, to sfincione, which is much closer to US-style deep-pan pizza than its thin-crusted Italian cousin. You’ll also come across panelle, a chickpea fritter dish that speaks of the North African influence on the city. At Vucciria market, you’ll also be able to try a couple of dishes that are a bit more adventurous, using lesser-used cuts of meat.
Crash with the Conte and Contessa
In a city with as much history as Palermo, it’s unsurprising that many of the hotels occupy old palaces and mansions packed with history accumulated over the centuries.
Palazzo Conte Federico was once a Norman watchtower before finding use as a palace. It has stood here since the 12th century, and is adorned with truly grand interiors. It has phenomenal furniture and wonderful objects on display, and the walls are lined with armor and an impressive weaponry collection. Your hosts will be the real conte and contessa, who will give you a tour of the home, and the latter may even take to the piano – one upon which Wagner himself once tickled the ivories. Try to reserve the palazzo bedroom, with its four-poster bed and golden drapes, especially if you’re on a romantic trip.
It’s in the heart of old Palermo, so you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to dining. If you’re in the mood for a friendly, communal meal, Gagini Social Restaurant specializes in delicious food served to shared tables. Set menus change regularly with the season, but you might get a dish like marinated mullet or quail with artichoke.
Gluten-Free Palermo
The Italian Coeliac Association and its regional branch in Sicily are working extremely hard to make it easier for tourists with food intolerances to find places to eat. If you don’t have a coeliac translation card with you, inform waiting staff that you’re “lo sono celiaco” and “senza glutine” and they’ll point you to the dishes you can eat.
Sesto Canto on Via S Oliva is renowned for catering gluten-free with minimum fuss. The menu is Sicilian with a modern twist, delivered with flair. Almond-crusted sea bream, pumpkin pie, octopus salad – and if a dish isn’t gluten-free they’re happy to adapt it.
For plentiful gluten-free options and an extensive vegetarian and vegan menu, Verdechiaro on Piazza Leoni is highly recommended.
Pampering and Patisserie
Near the marina with gorgeous panoramic views from its rooftop, the Hotel Porta Felice offers a boutique stay in yet another great location. There’s a sauna and a Turkish bath, plus a hydro massage pool. Beauty treatments and massages are available. Rooms are large and comfortable, and the area is close not only to the sea, but to Teatro Massimo, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and the rest of the fascinating La Kalsa neighborhood, too.
Stroll around La Kalsa with its Arabic influences and you’ll find dozens of restaurants, both new and old. One of the most legendary is Antica Focacceria San Francesco, which has been in the quiet backstreet Via Alessandro Paternostro, in a deconsecrated chapel, since 1834 – but there’s another location in the city, too. You can stay there to eat or grab some local dishes to carry out. There’s a variety of chickpea fritters, arancini with ragu, or eggplant with ricotta cheese and focaccia filled with everything from buffalo mozzarella or tuna to veal spleen.
For dinner, main courses such as swordfish meatballs, beef fillet with salmoriglio sauce, and pasta with sardines, pine nuts, raisins and saffron are all the perfect warm-up for the patisserie for dessert. If you haven’t got room for any, make sure you get some of the dolce della nonna – granny’s cake – to take with you back to your hotel.
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